Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of cities metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though say that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these narratives and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
